Quite honestly, I'm surprised how good of an experience Paris was. Many of the Euro travelers I've met along the way have given me constant horror stories of a complicated city, full of extremely rude residents, and hyper expensive food. Navigation for me has been a breeze (learned the subway as well), as many of the interesting landmarks are within 1-2km of each other. Most (English speaking) Parisians I’ve talked to have been very friendly, polite, and helpful. It’s always “bonjour” this and “merci beaucoup” that. Everyone is very stylish (nobody wears anything but black and gray here), smell of perfume, and the streets are packed with vendors selling wine, cheese and French bread.
On Saturday, I again made an early bird attempt to seek out the Louvre interior. Unfortunately for me, the train station for my “small” town of Reims sits on a low priority track. Due to some "incident," I had to take a transfer to nearby Epernay, where I would be forced to wait almost two hours. I arrived in Paris way to late for the Louvre experience, so I again decided to delay that particular event, and took in some other outdoor sights (due to great weather).
Considering the time of day, Notre Dame would be open. I ran over and got in yet another super long line, but not from the back this time. I hate waiting in line, absolutely hate it. Queues where I can't engage in other activities while I wait make me angry. Lines like that make me feel as if the time was completely and utterly wasted away (especially when I’m by myself). Given my cloak and dagger activity from the previous night, I felt like putting my skills to the test once more. Waiting near the front doors of the Cathedral, and making it look as if I was taking pictures (which I was anyway), I waited until all the other tourists craned their necks back for their own picture taking pleasure. At that moment I simply (without even lowering my camera) weaseled myself next to a group of people my age, thus lowering the chance anyone would notice. Not only did it work like a charm, I also saved myself a good 30 minutes of valuable Paris time.
To quote one of my many heroes:
“Don’t discourage the boy Marge, weaseling out of things (or in my case, into things) is what separates us from the animals… except the weasel.”
Inside the Notre Dame, it was unfortunately (and predictably) crowded, but even with all the loudmouthed people strutting about (people were almost yelling), the Dame had a humbling and powerful aura. Similar to the Reichstag, I knew some of the history going in, which always helps in adding an extra layer of importance to the experience. It's hard to put into words exactly what I felt, but the whole building just bled history, character, and age, leaving me with a feeling of near insignificance.
Another landmark visited that day was the "Place du Pantheon." It was fun trying to find the place too. I completely ignored my map and local street signs. I just kind of walked in the general direction of what I thought was the right direction, until I came across a city block sized building. It didn’t take long for me to find said massive structure peeking through the city skyline. When the French thought up the design for this particular structure, the architect must have just taken a piece of paper, and in massive, block sized letters wrote “huge everything” one hundred times in a row. Trust me, it shows. The inner décor of the Pantheon was entirely made up of large paintings, large sculptures, large pillars, and large monuments. In the dead center, set up on the floor, there was a (large) golden ball attached to a (large) wire, which came down from the highest point (also large) on the main (large) dome. It’s a (large) scale model of Foucault’s Pendulum, which worked perfectly in telling time, based on the earth’s (large) orbit I believe.
Underneath the Pantheon was a series of crypts, which I explored with great haste. Sadly, these particular crypts were clean, non-dank, and very well lit (can you even call such a thing a crypt?). Many famous Parisians were/are buried here, but the only ones that I recognized (or able to locate) were Voltaire, and Victor-Hugo.
The crypts of the Pantheon were a big let down (but the building itself rocked), so I decided play the trump card, and pay a visit to the Catacombs.
Wow.
I had first thought this place would be a cheesy hallway filled with old and faded pictures, accompanied by boring, poorly composed banners, and boy was I wrong (only the entrance room was like that, haha). After descending about 100ish spiraling stairs down into the ground (stairs down? Woo hoo!), you walk through a super small quarry tunnel, and after about 15 minutes of getting lost in the dark, you arrive at the burial grounds.
Bones, bones, bones, bones, and more bones.
This is what the Pantheon crypts should have been. The Catacombs were dark, dank (the air was moist, and water dripped from the ceiling), and smelled of decomposition (I’m going to assume that’s what the smell was). It was unreal how many bones were down here. They were stacked row upon row, for 1.6km of winding, twisting tunnels, and 99% of the bones were either skulls, or femurs. I’m not sure where the rest of the remains went, but I assume there is just no public access to those areas (probably quite messy). I walked by many a skull and thought to myself “this used to be a person, that used to be their brain, eyes, nose, flesh.”
When I die, I want my body put into a capsule and blasted into the void of space. That way I can spook some alien race some day, or perhaps fly into a black hole. Wouldn’t matter to me at all! Har har!
Being the first Sunday of the month, every museum in Paris had free admission. After finishing with the Catacombs I decided to spend the rest of daytime hours at the Louvre. I was quite amused to just walk in with absolutely no line up at all. The place was packed, but with no tickets to restrict/slow access, everyone could simply walk in. There was only 90 minutes until closing, so I grabbed a map, turned my camera to "spam mode," and hunted down the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and most importantly (to me anyway), the Winged Victory of Samothrace. The Louvre is massive (see: Pantheon massive X10), and I still plan to revisit it for a whole day. What I saw that afternoon was one floor, of one single wing. There are four main floors, and dozens of wings. OY!
To wind up the evening I visited the Place de la Bastile monument, and went home “early” again so that I could visit the Louvre in the morning. Sadly, here I am in Madrid (I had reservations here, and couldn't stay in Paris any longer) with the Louvre undiscovered (to an acceptable point). I’ll hopefully have a half day stop in Paris on my way back from Barcelona to Switzerland/Austria/Italy. I saw all the mega-attractions at the louvre though, so that should hold me till I complete January's agenda.
p.s. I finished uploading the rest of my pictures, up until Dec 31st, and have added captions to them as well. The slide show you are accustomed to clicking for my Picasa page will no longer have new pictures added. It will remain on the site, but due to a cap on how many pictures each album can hold, it seemed like a good time to start a fresh one for the new year. So, the old one will be 2008, and the new one will be 2009. Simple like pie! When you are on my Picasa page, you can flip bewtween albums there using the interface, so there is no need to move back and forth between my blog and Picasa, if you wish to view the different albums.
Kyle-“well, we’re boned”-out
Tuesday, January 06, 2009
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6 comments:
Oh my goodness! You really hit the new year at full speed ahead.
I can't believe it was so busy in Paris. I'm glad you got to the top of the Eiffel Tower and into Notre Dame. You could probably spend a week in the Louvre and just barely get started. Spain should give you a completely different look in the art and architecture. And it should start getting warmer as you head south. Lucky you!
Our main news is still the cold weather. We have been breaking records in both the actual temperature and the duration of the cold weather. The other day it was -41C (-57 with wind chill) Yikes! And we have been at -25C or less for 21 consecutive days. Yikes! I knew the nice fall would come back to bite us.
Dad's looking forward to seeing you and would like to hear from you. Is there anything from home you would like him to bring?
I know you've been supremely busy, but I hope you can get some text on your photos soon.
Love, Mom
Well, sounds like you timed it well. I heard a report that they closed the Eifel Tower yesterday (I think) because of snow & ice build up!
So, why the special attraction to the Winged Victory of Samothrace?
Your Dear Old God Father
Be very careful in Spain Kyle. It is pick pocket central and rip off city so just make sure you have your money and credit cards spread into many different pockets.
Don't worry about the Louvre. Other than the Mona Lisa it is just a lot of stuff you can find in many other museums.
I am glad you enjoyed Paris. I really want to go back there again one day as I feel I rushed it the first time. It sounds like you really packed it in!!!
This weekend Tyler and I are celebrating our birthdays early with a brunch with mom, dad and Tyler's parents. Tyler is off to Japan for a week because of work and will miss his bday at home. However, I don't feel too bad for him. I wish I was going to Japan for a week, but instead I will be right here, freezing my rear.
Anyway, pickpockets aside, I hope you enjoy Spain. Check out some Gaudi architecture. I think you were kinda drunk when I told you this before, but in Barcelona don't pay to go into the Sagrada Familia as it is more impressive from the outside and the inside is just scaffolding. However Park Guell (you can get there on a city bus for like 2 euro) and Casa Batllo are awesome.
Keep safe and have fun, your I-know-you-are-23-but-I-still-feel-the-need-to-be-proctective-sister, Laurena
Laurena -
Why do you keep insinuating that I was drunk? I've got a much higher tolerance than my oldest (much much much much older) sister, who can barely take two glasses of wine! PSHAW!
Did you ever think that it may have just been very late? I was extremely tired by that point, and it was like 3am! I'm old too you know! My bones are brittle and I hate kids with their new age "music." I sure hope my call to Omi/Rick didn't come across as drunk Kyle. Seriously though Laurena, you're as old as the Egyptian temple I saw today, and I bet you knew half of the people I saw in the Catacombs too!
OK OK, NOW I'm gonna be serious. I do remember you telling me about the Sagrada Familia (and laughing like a drunkard), but do you think it's still covered in scaffolding?
Mom-
It's like 16-17 degrees outside here in Madrid. I feel sorry for you guys back home =(
Rick-
My interest to the Winged Victory of Samothrace spawns from a few different circumstances. It would have to start with my history in computer gaming. In the old days of Warcraft II, one of my primary interests/skills would be with naval warfare. Nothing was more fun to me than floating a small navy around and slaughtering a much more vast naval force (or in some cases, they came from the air as well). Full blockades of the enemy were also a specialty of mine, allowing the expansion of my (and my allies) armies.
I don't remember the exact year, but back in high school my good friend Adam went to Greece. One of his personal souvenirs which he brought home was a totally wicked statue of Lady Justice. I've always been a bit jealous of that statue, because it's totally badass, and I love things that are badass.
For a few years, nothing really happened, but in University I took a class in Greek/Roman history. We never studied the Winged Victory of Samothrace per se, but the class did open my mind to much of the history from that era. With that class spawned a ton of interest in art and art history from that time as well, which then led me to take a class in art history. Again, we never studied about Victory directly, but it was here that I first got the opportunity to look at these gods (and their sculptures/paintings) with great detail.
The Winged Victory of Samothrace fit almost all my criteria for personal interest. The statue itself is a technical masterpiece. To make marble stone look like flowing, (nearly transparent in some places) clothing, is amazing; especially considering its age (3rd century). It's not known for sure, but the general assumption is that the Winged Victory of Samothrace holds original ties to naval war battles (and their subsequent victories), which of course, I love. The way I see it, Victory missing her arms and head only adds to the effect. Using ones imagination, any number of powerful poses can be derived, using the already striking posture for reference (which falls under the badass category). Lastly, the artist of this particular sculpture is unknown, and that slight bit of mystery (and artistic ignorance) certainly assists in creating an artistic effect which is both untainted, and original.
I guess that sorta sums it up, so there you go =)
As a side note, I have changed the way my slide show works. The "old and busted" way would take you to picasa using the same page, which killed the blog. If you wanted to return to my blog, the only options would be to go "back," (which would also kill picasa, refresh my blog, and cause the slideshow to begin again with Munich again) or manually creating a new page yourself. This old method sucked, so I changed it to open picasa in a new page automatically, thus leaving the blog and picasa independent of each other. I hope you like this subtle change, as I think it's for the best.
Another change I made (that means much much less), is capping the main page to only show my last 15 posts. Easier to scroll, and reduces load times by 0.000003 seconds! Enjoy!
Geez! I just try and look out for my little brother (who has grown up so much from those times of naked skateboarding and getting dressed in a bonnet and pinafore) and I get blasted for being a tad grandmotherly before my time!!
Oh, and Kyle, you were drunk. I have seen you stay awake all night let alone 3am, and tiredness has never made you giggle like a school girl and slur. Plus, Rita told me you guys had been drinking A LOT and even she admited to being intoxicated. Case closed.
Oh! And did you see where I carved my name in the catacombs back in 1783?
As for the Sagrada Familia, I don't think they will have finished it yet. They started it back in 1882 and predict it to finally be done "sometime in the first 3rd of the 21st Century" So I mean, maybe in the next couple hundred years or so. Maybe you can go back there when you are my age. The inside of the church is completely empty except for scaffolding and outside it is surrounded by cranes. The only good thing about paying to go in is as you climb the steeples (there are 4, or maybe more, I don't remember) you can get a closer look of the details at the top of the church. I just didn't think it was worth the money or the time wasted in line-ups. The park Guell is pretty well free, and the price for the Casa Bastllo was worth it.
Ok so it is time for me to go get my walker and hobble out to get a cup of tea.
I think my memory is starting to go too.
Did you see where I carved my name in the catacombs back in 1783?
I think my memory is starting to go too.
Later sonny, your-31-on-the-13th-but-still-young-at-heart-sister, Laurena
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