Tuesday, December 09, 2008

Barenaked for the holidays: Bergen, Norway

Not to be taken literally of course, as that would likely lead to hypothermia. 
It's just the name of the Christmas album by the Barenaked Ladies, released a few years back, and it seems to be playing quite frequently on my iPod (maybe because I make it so? hmmm). Reminds me of the last few Christmas years, and fills me with a rather large dosage of nostalgia. Not sure where I'm gonna be, let alone what I'm going to be doing, but I'm sure SOMETHING will come up. There must be thousands of loners like me running around Europe -- right?

If you've bothered to look at my location on a map, you will see that I've covered quite a bit of ground in the last few days. I went directly to Oslo from Copenhagen, and then two nights later I took the train to Bergen.

Copenhagen was nice, and the weather has been quite kind (so far) in scandinavia. I grabbed myself a map and made up my own tour of Copenhagen on the spot (mmmm discount tours). I visited the harbor, and the little mermaid statue/icon.  Ran across a school ground by accident, and it seriously reminded me of Dachau, which when you think about it, makes a lot of sense. Besides that, there were four primary highlights of Copenhagen by my count:
One was the outdoor skating rink surrounded by trees/buildings absolutely covered by white Christmas lights. I tried to skate on the ice briefly, but with no skates it was more like walking on the street. 
The second highlight was the old defensive castle grounds, which have since been converted for use by the military/police (so it seemed).  The neat thing about the grounds was that instead of using a stone wall for defense, they used dirt.  Lots and lots of dirt.  From the outside, the "walls" were so tall that it looked like any old (very steep) hill, but once you cross the bridge over the moat, you find a hollow interior full of streets, buildings, and canons.
The third highlight was an area I discovered by accident, called "christiana," far to Copenhagen's eastern coast.  The area is a bum-hole by definition.  People in dirty jackets, fingerless gloves, "stick and bag" slung over their shoulder, and cigarettes hovering around garbage bins lit-a-flame.  To make it even more bizarre, it looked as if these bums had their own economy.  There were make shift stores, cheap food (I did not risk it), and lots of drugs.  Ah sweet memories of Amsterdam.
Lastly, while walking to the train station where an exceptionally bright street caught my eye, I tried to enter.  My "efforts" were halted by two security agent's, who were previously invisible to me.  Once they turned me away, some passerby must have seen me, and asked if I wanted to get in.  I told him that I didn't even know what was in there, but he said that he could get me in for free, so I accepted.  Once in (after thanking the mysterious stranger), I quickly found out why they wouldn't let me just walk in.  The area was exactly like a fair grounds which you would find at the west-edmonton, only outdoors.  I was tempted to go on some rides, but it was something around the area of $20 for a short ride, and I had nowhere to put my gear.  Only takes two strikes to get me out of this game.

My list of activities for Oslo was very similar to Copenhagen.  This time however; it was out of necessity.  I finally understand what people have been warning me about, in regards to the "cost of Norway".  For example, I could sleep in Germany for about $25-30 on average.  In Prague about $15 a night, and in Oslo, the discount bargain-bin hostel was costing me about $55 a night.  Not only that, but I walked into a Mcdonalds looking for a cheap lunch.  Hmmmm $18 for a big mac and fries?  Bwahahahahahahaaha, yea no, I'll eat the $3.00 slice of bread instead, thank you.  
Similarly to Copenhagen, Oslo had some nice Christmas avenues.  I walked around the downtown and saw the city hall, main theatre, university buildings, and the super amazing fjords across the harbor.  Oh, that and a castle with hat-less guards (brrrrrr).

The next morning, I took the seven hour day train to Bergen.  I have to say that this train ride was absolutely spectacular.  The tracks took us through tunnel after tunnel, and after each one was a new picturesque landscape.  Sheer cliffs and oh-my-god-so-crystal-clear rivers, vast Siberian-esque landscapes, towering waterfalls, misty mountains, and grand, snow covered pine tree forests made up my entertainment for the day.

Bergen has been fun, and is twenty times more picturesque than Oslo.  I only had one day in Bergen, so I had to spend it well, and oh did I ever.  As you'll see in my pictures, Bergen is a super-large city in the valley of surrounding mountains, and an adjacent ocean.  I went up the tram to the top of the nearby mountains.  Once at the top you find the usual touristy stuff, but it had an a-m-a-z-i-n-g view.  I spent the whole day up there, wandering the snowy back-tracks without any aim whatsoever.  It snowed on and off all day, and the weather was hovering around -1, with nearly no wind, and occasional blue sky. 
Looking down on the city, I could see and hear the activity, and the "busy."  Simply walk 50 meters down into the forest and all sound would completely vanish.  I was beyond happy in this place.  Walking around in near perfect weather conditions,  snow cracking beneath my feet, and the only sound to pass by my ears was that of flowing water -- then silence, sweet sweet silence; followed by a soft gust of wind, blowing snow across my face.  

I have Sweden and Finland left to see, and is scheduled to keep me until the 20th of December, which leaves me in perfect position for a return to Germany for Christmas.  Then a quick shot over to France (maybe Paris if by some miracle) for new-years.  Well, we'll see I guess.

-Kyle- Messin' with the Guessn' -Out

13 comments:

Rosemarie Markwart said...

Ah. Deja-vu. On your train trip through Norway you would have likely passed through the little town of Geilo, where I spent the summer of '72. At one point I was able to get a ride on a tour bus to Bergen. At this point in my life I had never been to the Rocky Mts yet, so the sight of these mountains and fjords left me absolutely breathless. I even remember actually crying over the beauty. Also took that tram to the top. What I remember about Oslo are cobbled streets and pigeons, a sculpture garden, Edward Grieg's house and an old viking ship in a museum.

HAVE YOU MADE CONTACT WITH RITA? I think she is expecting you around Xmas time, and you would really enjoy the pampering. Send her an email NOW.

I am currently in Vancouver and it is (gasp) raining. So our activities have been reduced to baking, movie watching and game playing. I hope the rain ceases tomorrow as we were hoping to go up to Whistler for a visit.And if not, well, a rousing game of Settlers of Catan it is. We've been watching mostly chick flicks till now, but we're probably due for an action picture pretty soon, or Mike may consider jumping off the balcony.

Bye for now. Love, Mom

Laurena said...

I highly recommend Christmas with Rita. Never on your trip will you experience better food and pampering. Rita is a wonderful and generous woman, and maybe the cooking and music would make you feel a bit more at home (sans the loud family and annual Markwart Christmas fight/temper tantrum/spaz etc resulting in the much needed Marwart Christmas vodka shot. Or maybe that is just MY memory of Xmas at home...)And in order to get to Ludwigsburg where she lives you have to go through Stuttgart, home of the ultimate xmas market.

Anyway, I never went to any of scandanavia but I have heard great things and have been enjoying your descriptions.

And finally, is that FACIAL HAIR in your picure!!!??? I was like, "hmmmm something looks different, may it is the more wordly glint in his eye", but then I realized that wasn't just chocolate cotton candy but what suspiciously looked like a beard!! Good for you, whatever it takes to keep your chin warm is what I say!

So, to echo mom, get in touch with Rita.

Your sis Laurena of the bearded brothers.

Al said...

Have you seen this!!??!!??

http://www.amazon.ca/Hellsing-Ultimate-Vol-1/dp/B001CFQO48/ref=pd_sbs_d_4

Apparently the "Ultimate" series is much better than the original (as per my brief online research). Look up some clips on youtube and let me know what you think!!

Granted we still have BSG to get through but this does look "appetizing"

Love the goatee by the way...now I'm only one left our age with an inability to grow facial hair! Haha!

Harvey Markwart said...

Good Morning Kyle:- You have to consider writing a tourist guild to Europe --- I have never been very interested in the History or Sights of Europe until I started reading your Blogs . Creative ,Interesting and Unique would best describe your daily travels and adventures. Would you be interested in meeting me in Barcelona,Spain on January 25th 2009 for a 12 day cruise of the Mediterranean Sea ---Leaving Barcelona on Jan 25th at 7pm and going to Rome Italy, Athens Greece,Izmir (Ephesus) Turkey, Cairo plus Alexandria Egypt and Malta then returning to Barcelona on Friday February the 6th at 5am . I would fly into Barcelona on the morning of the 25th of Jan. and meet you either at the air port or the docks. The ship is the Norwegian Jade --- when the ship returns to Barcelona on the Friday Feb. 6th -I would fly back to Canada that afternoon. Please e-mail your reply or more questions to harveymarkwart@gmail.com Love Dad PS The only cost for you would be to get to and from Barcelona --the rest I would look after.

Rosemarie Markwart said...

Hello. Well, the heavens parted and we had a beautiful blue sky, so off we went to Whistler. They are working on widening the road before the Olympics and we had a few delays as a result of that. Whistler iteself is a very pretty resort town. We just had a look around, had a hot dog and poutine lunch and headed back.

....

This morning brings SNOW so I am informed that we have to leave for the airport RIGHT NOW.

Bye from LaLaLand. Love, Mom

Rosemarie Markwart said...

Hello. Well here I am back in Saskatoon. My trip to Vancouver seems to have gone very quickly.

I left at 7:10 Monday morning and arrived about 7:20. Ah, the joys of time zones. Tiffany was working, so poor Mike had the dubious honour of battling morning rush hour traffic to come and fetch me. After unloading my stuff we traipsed around Vancouver doing a bunch of errands. Their apartment is right smack dab in the middle of downtown, so everything is within walking distance. Just don't forget your umbrella at home.

After Tiffany finished work we went to a seriously cool restaurant (Cactus Club, I think). This is sort of place you would go if you were really trendy, and you know how up-to-the-minute I am. The food was delicious, but the piece de resistance was the bathrooms. They were totally done in a very modern opaque green glass. Everything was automatic, of course. The toilet seats had a plastic cover that would rotate to a fresh section with the push of a button. And when you were sitting on the pristine toilet you could watch the TV that was built into the door. No urinating in the streets here. Who would ever want to leave?

We went home and played a game called Settlers of Catan. I think you would quite like it. I was ubertired and getting sick, so I didn't put up a very good fight.

Tuesday passed in a feverish haze. I seem to recall some nice smells coming from the kitchen.

Wednesday brought a return of some consciousness, enough to watch some movies and to work on a puzzle between naps. Both Tuesday and Wednesday were very rainy, so it was not good weather to go out anywhere anyway.

Thursday dawned clear and sunny, so we ventured off to Whistler. I thought it might be fun to visit the home of the 2010 Olympics. It was a really nice drive, but rather lengthy, due in part to all the road construction along the way. I guess the visit could be summarized by "almost". We almost saw some fabulous scenery (too many trees in the way), we almost went on a gondola ride (missing it by 5 minutes), we almost saw the inaugaural trip of the new record breaking "Peak 2 Peak" gondola going from the top of one mountain to another (it opened the next day), we almost went on a hike to a nearby lake (we kept losing the trail) and we almost saw the bobsled runs (it was getting too dark and too late). It was still a nice visit and it was refreshing to get outside in the clear mountain air. It would be fun to go back there with a pocket full of money and stay for awhile.

Our return to Vancouver was affected by substantial traffic delays. One was caused by 4 lanes of traffic trying to merge into one to get over the Lion's Gate Bridge. Gotta love small town Saskatchewan.

We still managed to get back in time to visit visit a beautiful garden with a gazillion lights. As you walked along the garden paths you were greeted at every turn with a more spectacular display. It was a beautiful, mild evening and nothing could have been more perfect. Many plants were still green and fragrant and the fountains and pools reflected the lights like glass. It was breathtaking.

We ended the evening with a very nice dinner at one of the many Earl's. Our hostess was from Saskatoon originally, so we had a very lovely evening despite the lack of ostrich head decor.

Friday brought a return of precipitation, in solid form. It was snowing like crazy on our way to the airport, but it turned to rain before too long. The return trip involved a stopover in Calgary. The flight leaving Vancouver was delayed, so I arrived in Calgary AFTER the scheduled departure time of the next leg. After disembarking, I found the Saskatoon gate nearby, but it was empty. Turns out they had just finished loading, but they thought I was a misconnect. They had cancelled me and were just giving my boarding pass to a stand-by passenger. They literally had to pluck it back out of her hands. So after this last second connection, we waited over an hour before actually departing - for a 44 minute flight. Poor Ryan had to wait for ages for me and then for ages more for the luggage. You guessed it - mine did not actually arrive. (Gotta love Air Canada). I am at this moment waiting to go go the airport to pick up my stuff, but it keeps getting postponed, over an hour now. And I want to go to bed so BADLY.

So that's the end of the Vancouver saga.

You parcel arrived while I was gone. Thank you for the photos. I got rather misty eyed thinking: "That's my boy"

Love, Mom

CONTACT RITA NOW!!!!

Rosemarie Markwart said...

Aaaargh! After waiting up for several extra hours, I made the treck to the airport, and tada! cancelled flight. Off to bed without my poor lost stuff.

Rosemarie Markwart said...

I'm sure you'll be relieved to know that Air Canada called me first thing this morning with the news that they had my luggage thad arrived and they would be delivering it within the next hour or two. So I did not have to go to work without my pants.

That was good in numerous ways because when I awoke, the radio informed me that it was -26C. So while I was waiting for my luggage I decided it couldn't be helped - I had to go outside and plug in the van if I wanted to get to work today. So out I ran in my bathrobe, extension cord in hand. Unfortunately, I had not yet had to use the block heater, so I had to get the hood open and find the end of the cord first. I did these mighty quickly, I can tell you. Our forecast for tonight calls for -34C (windchill of -45C). I see that in Vancouver the forecast is for -1C, (windchill of -7C). OH, THE HUMANITY!!!!

I was going to say that I would like to see some Norwegian mountain pictures, if you please.

Bye for now. Love, Mom

rborchert said...

> we had a very lovely evening despite the lack of ostrich head decor

Um...

> Poor Ryan had to wait for ages for me and then for ages more for the luggage. You guessed it - mine did not actually arrive. (Gotta love Air Canada)

Well, while I'm no great fan of Air Canada's, if you're incoming flight arrived AFTER the scheduled departure time of your outgoing flight, I don't think it's TOO surprising your luggage didn't get on board.

Oh yeah, I have an important message for Kyle...

CONTACT RITA NOW!!!!

Rosemarie Markwart said...

To Rick:

The Saskatoon Earl's was recently redorated, and the prominent decor item was mounted ostrich heads. An interesting, but unappetizing (?) choice. The Earls in Vancouver featured more conventional and attractive white pointsettias.

After the dash onto the plane in Calgary there was a delay of over an hour. There were a few announcements stating that the cause for the delay was that more cargo had to be loaded, so I was optimistic, but not shocked.

So, hopefully that clarifies some of the confusion.

Kyle, feel free to use your blog from time to time. Sorry for monopolizing your space. I also apologize for the repetition. Did I mention the feverish haze?

Apparantly Rita has been reading your blogs, so, here's an idea. LEAVE A NOTE FOR RITA NOW!

Happy 3rd Advent. Ryan and I will celebrate with some mohn kuchen. Love, Mom

Kyle Markwart said...

You know what makes me look bad? When it takes me longer to read the comments left by mom, than to write a whole new post. Hmph!

Rosemarie Markwart said...

Sorry ;)

rborchert said...

lol

So, we got a Christmas card from Europe today, complete with bad pun :-)

Thank's much God Son o' Mine

P.S. Has anyone mentioned that you should contact Rita?