Well it has been an interesting few days.
I type to you now from a side street eatery in Brussels. I have not had access to wi-fi since I left Berlin, so I took advantage of this place while I could (I refuse to pay for internet). Didn't matter in the least that this place is advertised as the best "gay lifestyle" meeting place in town. It has free wi-fi, so I'm O.K. with that. Not to seem like I'm mooching too much, I decided to order some potato soup and a beer (served to me in some oversized wine glass, haha).
After leaving Berlin, I headed down to Arras to visit the Vimy memorial. I arrived on the 9th, and after walking to the only hostel in town, I was told there was no vacancy because of the holiday. It would seem that I was not the only one with the bright idea of going to visit Vimy on the 11th. Not smart on my part. I then took a bus to a nearby town to see if they had space, but they didn't, so I went back to the first hostel to beg for a spot. I would have slept on the floor if they let me. They must have had pity on me, perhaps because I was obviously Canadian, but they asked one of the tour groups if I could stay in one of their rooms. The party agreed, and I then had a place to stay for the night, *phew*. My luck did not end there however, for after talking to the receptionist about my intentions to visit Vimy, he told me that as a Canadian, that there was a chauffeur who takes people to the memorial site for free, and he leaves each morning at 10:45am. The next morning, I went to the memorial grounds. The weather was overcast, and the wind was absolutely howling (was hard to get a good shot). I saw the memorial and spent quite a bit of time there. I went to various graveyards, the preserved trenches, and saw part of the tunnels. The memorial was recently restored in '07, so it was in superb condition. When walking around, you have to stick to small little walking paths, as it is made quite obvious that the surrounding forest is full of unexploded munitions. I did not need any signs or electric fence to tell me this. It's quite obvious when you look around. The entire area (outside of the memorial hill) was a mogul-hill pattern, which formed that way from relentless Canadian/German artillery barrage.
My timing to the memorial also made it quite impossible to gain access to a guide, as they were being swamped by schools/military personnel. That was not a problem for me however; as I had all the time I needed to explore, and be humbled by the war-torn grounds of Vimy Ridge.
Interesting fact about Vimy. During WWII, Hitler visited the memorial after conquering the area. He liked the monument because it was not about conquest , but rather remembrance and mourning. Hitler stationed a group of SS soldiers there to keep the regular army from defacing the monument for the duration of the war.
After returning to Arras, I gathered up all my stuff and made a semi-complicated move to Ypres, so that I could be there for 11:00 the next morning. The reason I left Arras (and Vimy) in favor of Ypres was simple. I asked one of the guides at Vimy if there was a service on the 11th. She said the main service was actually held on the 10th, which I missed by an hour that day. Ypres has a major monument known as the Menin Gate. Every day since the end of WW1, the municipal Ypres government has had a "Last Post" ceremony (that's about 27 000). The only gap in this ceremony was a brief stint during WWII. On the 11th, they held a massive service which caused the streets to fill in every direction, as far as the eye could see. The service was very moving, and the unrelenting rain and wind did not stop me from standing out there for the duration. The great thing about the weather was that once the MC told the crowd "please stay where you are until the veterans, dignitaries, and military personnel have left the gate, that did the rain instantly stop, and the sun shine like a beacon through the clouds. It was amazing.
I was only in Ypres for a few hours, then it was off to Brussels!
Brussels must be the most confusing place I've been to yet. It's got the terrible street labeling system of Prague, and the crazy-backwards-winding-we-hate-straight-roads-here network. For example, on the map which I have in my hand right now, there are no less than three "Grand Central" locations in the downtown. When I got off at one of them (the wrong one I found out later), I tried to get some orientation using nearby street names, which were nowhere to be seen. UGH I hate it when a city thinks street signs are unnecessary, and not only that, but I have to make sure I have the name in the right language. It may be "rue de Emperior" on one map, but because of the major French/Finn relationship in Belgium, EVERYTHING has at least two ways of spelling/pronouncing it, and I can't tell the difference yet. Much like Prague, I have learned to love the area though, but only after a bit of pain and suffering. After a lengthy battle with the city, I eventually won, and got to my hostel on the edge of the medieval sector. The hostel is so-so (I have to check out every day), and I swear that the French are louder drunks than any other nationality; but it's a bed to sleep on, and it's not like I'm sitting around the hostel singing with the locals.
My first day in Brussels was fantastic. I found a map that didn't suck, and went monument hopping. The greatest thing was that it was the first "blue sky" day I've seen since Munich. Sadly, it is now once again overcast. I finally caved today and bought a mini umbrella, so I'm expecting the weather shall improve once again soon!
Waffles are amazing here-
- Kyle - Waffling out -
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4 comments:
I am assuming you are drinking Stella as it is usually served in the "oversized wine glass"
No street signs or tiny street signs are also a pet peeve of mine. You will find that A LOT in Europe, but just remember, sometimes getting lost is when you find the coolest places.
And French people are not only the loudest drunks (actually I think Canadians give them a good run for the money on that one...) but they are the most obnoxious. Come to think of it, they are obnoxious even when they are sober. And they travel in packs and use up all the utensils in the hostel kitchen and stay up late smoking in the hallways, and look at me like I am crazy when I tell them to be quiet at 3am while I am trying to sleep...grrrrr.
Well enjoy the free gay internet and your Stella, your big sis, L
Whew! It sounds like you've had a busy time. I think drinking beer out of wine glasses sounds quite charming. I'm surprised you could write such an extensive letter while undoubtedly fending off numerous advances.
I've been following your local weather and have been cursing myself for not slipping a poncho or something into your backpack. I guess you would get a new appreciation of what it might have been like living in the muddy freezing cold trenches. Are you getting a parka, or are you going where it's warmer?
That was quite interesting about Hitler, and the Last Post ceremony.
We (fortunately) never have to think about where we walk in case we step on a land mine or something.
Being in a Medieval part of town sounds cool. Those building were up before anyone, except possibly the Vikings, even knew this part of the world existed.
There's a story about a Canadian traveller who was in Switzerland in 1967. On July 1 he hung up some flags. When asked what that was about he explained it was to celebrate the 100th anniversary of our country. The innkeeper laughed and commented that his "new" roof was installed 100 years ago.
In the same vein: What is the difference between a European and a Canadian? A European thinks 100 miles is a long distance; a Canadian thinks 100 years is a long time.
Back to work for me. Love, Mom
Did you knpw: "ARRAS, with its fine old centre, is one of the prettiest towns in northern France. It was renowned for its tapestries in the Middle Ages, giving its name to the hangings behind which Shakespeare's Polonius was killed by Hamlet. Subsequently the town fell under Spanish control, and many of its citizens today claim that Spanish blood runs in their veins. Only in 1654 was Arras returned to the kingdom of France."
Also: "Of the battles, the largest, best-known, and most costly in human suffering was the Third Battle of Ypres (21 July to 6 November 1917, also known as the Battle of Passchendaele) in which the British, Canadians, ANZAC and French forces recaptured the Passchendaele ridge east of the city at a terrible cost of lives. After months of fighting, this battle resulted in nearly half a million casualties to all sides, and only several miles of ground won by Allied forces. The town was all but obliterated by the artillery fire."
Enjoy the Belgian Waffles! (Mmmmm Waffles). I wonder if they'd be good with Nutella
Love, Mom
First of all, I would never wear a poncho, even if I had one with me. I would rather die from hypothermia in a dignified position than be found alive in a poncho. None of that "frozen corpse, huddled over for warmth" crap.
Oh how I miss futurama.
SECONDLY, there is no "I wonder if" with nutella. It works with everything.
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